CHINA

China

China is one of the world’s most fascinating travel destinations, both for a look into its past and for a chance to ponder its future. China’s evolution from the oppressive Mao years to the current rampant consumerism may be one of the most amazing transitions in human history.

Napoleon once said, “China? There lies a sleeping giant. Let him sleep! For when he wakes he will move the world.” Well, the giant is wide awake, and China is hurtling headlong into the future. This country is changing faster than any place on earth, so it’s important to go now before any more of its history disappears. Something else to consider is that an expanding middle class is making it possible for millions of Chinese to travel for the first time, resulting in growing crowds of Chinese tourists at all the famous sites.

Reasons to visit china

1. Beijing

Beijing is the historic heart of China where courtyard homes still line old, narrow alleyways called hutongs and a traditional way of life continues despite the constant threat of redevelopment. The capital city also contains many sites essential to understanding this sometimes baffling country.

Begin at the Forbidden City, an impressive palace complex built in the early 1400’s where twenty-four emperors ruled for 500 years. Hidden from view behind imposing walls and a deep moat lies a totally different world of marble bridges, tranquil gardens, and thousands of rooms once used to house the emperors and their households. The Forbidden City was designed according to feng shui principles with red buildings (for luck) topped with yellow roofs (for power). Common people were not permitted to enter, and many of the royals rarely ventured out. Why would they have any desire to leave? After all, of the 10,000 people who once lived here, 3,000 were concubines.

Tiananmen Square fulfilled Chairman Mao’s dream of creating the largest and most spectacular square in the world. Designed to hold 500,000 people, it’s easy to envision the intimidating military displays regularly performed here during the days of the Cultural Revolution. The site also evokes memories of the hundreds killed by government troops during the 1989 student protests. But today, the most common sight is the street vendors hawking cheap Mao wristwatches, with the Chairman pounding out the seconds with his fist. If you want one, be sure to bargain hard!

The Summer Palace is a gorgeous spot outside the city where the royals went to escape the summer heat. While The Forbidden City was all about power and impressing visitors, this summer retreat was a pure pleasure palace. Don’t miss the Marble Boat down by the lake. This “boat” that looks more like a boat-shaped marble pier, was built by the crazy Empress Cixi with funds supposed to be used to modernize the Navy.

2. The Great Wall

Reputedly 5500 miles (8850 km) long, The Great Wall is considered one of the wonders of the world and is China’s number one tourist attraction. The Chinese have a saying, “You are not a real man until you have climbed the Great Wall.” Luckily for you, sections of The Great Wall at both Badaling and Mutianyu are easy day trips from Beijing. Even better, both locations are equipped with cable cars, so you can save your energy for walking the Wall itself.

The Great Wall is simply awesome, a truly unbelievable engineering feat. The 12-foot wide wall has crenellated sides like the edges of a huge castle, a height that varies between 20 to 30 feet depending on the terrain, with scenic watchtowers strategically placed all along the route. The wall itself is impressive enough, but to build it in this unforgiving terrain seems insane. At least one million slaves and prisoners of war worked on the project. Many died in the process, and for centuries, the Wall was known as the longest cemetery in the world.

3. Xi’an

Discovered in 1974 by Chinese farmers drilling for a well, The Terracotta Warriors are one of the most significant archaeological excavations of the 20th century and the highlight of any visit to Xi’an. Qin Shi Huang, China’s first emperor, was obsessed with the hereafter. To ensure that he would continue the sweet life of commander-in-chief even after his death, he had his minions create a terracotta army made from local clay baked in a kiln. This effort resulted in thousands of warlike, life-sized soldiers with weapons in hand, decked out in full battle armor, and positioned in military formation.

The Warriors are housed in 3 separate buildings (“creatively” named Pits #1, # 2, and #3). Each pit is an unfinished archeological work in progress, with many of the soldiers and other artifacts still in the process of being discovered. It is estimated that 6,000 soldiers will be unearthed in Pit #1 alone. Walk around the periphery of the excavations to observe the details of each soldier and horse. Remarkably, no two soldiers are alike – you’ll see different faces, heights, and statures along with a variety of mustaches and hairstyles. Each soldier’s head is actually a separately molded piece that fits together with the body, like inserting a peg into a hole. The idea was to provide the soldiers with a wider range of motion so they could turn their heads during battles in the afterlife.

Xi’an offers more than just clay warriors, and even if you are not usually into song and dance, you should check out the Tang Dynasty Show. This extravaganza features wildly colorful stage sets and elaborate costumes. Plus a fascinating musical mix of unusual Chinese instruments and dancing that is the definition of graceful, especially when the female dancers wave their long, drooping sleeves like ribbons in the wind.

4. Food fit for an emperor

If your knowledge of Chinese food is limited to your neighborhood take-out place, you haven’t begun to appreciate this complex cuisine. Chinese dishes are varied, healthy, always a treat for the senses, and each region glories in its own specialties.

Beijing is renowned for Peking Duck, a roasted duck dish that was a favorite in the Imperial Court. The lean and crispy duck arrives at your table intact where it is expertly sliced in front of you. Then, you go to work creating the equivalent of a Chinese taco: spread some plum sauce on a steamed pancake and add succulent slices of duck, some scallions, and cucumber slices. Now down it all with a cold Tsingtao beer. Hao chi! (Delicious!)

Ancient chestnut trees still grow near The Great Wall, and these wonderfully chewy nuts are the star of savory dishes like Pork with Chestnuts. Xi’an has a longstanding dumpling tradition and eating a “dumpling dinner” ranks right up there with seeing the Terracotta Warriors as a Xi’an must-do. Wooden steamer bowls are spread out on your table, each one holding several beautifully presented dumplings. The paper-thin wrappings conceal ingredients such as pork, chicken, ham, vegetables, fish, and even walnuts. One of the most loved foods in China, dumplings are delicate works of art often shaped to look like animals or flowers – a delight to the eye and the tummy.  And don’t forget to sample the fragrant Chinese teas. Some of the more elaborate teas even open up like a flower unfolding in your glass.

5. Enchanting landscapes

No trip to China is complete without a look at some of its stunning landscapes. Waterways have always been the lifeblood of China, and one of the most enchanting is the Yangtze River, the third longest river in the world, stretching for almost 4,000 miles (6500 km) from Tibet to the East China Sea near Shanghai.

The most dramatic stretch of the Yangtze flows through the Three Gorges, one of China’s scenic marvels. A cruise through the Three Gorges takes you into narrow passages where jagged cliffs loom overhead and past ghostly, mist-shrouded mountains. Highlights include the Wu Gorge (the Gorge of Witches) with some of the most dramatic peaks on the river, where according to the ancients, “The peaks pierce the sky.” And the strange Meng Liang staircase which is actually a series of holes cut into the cliff in a zigzag pattern that may have been used (with the help of some rope ladders) to scale the steep cliff. Floating along surrounded by sheer peaks and swirling mists, you feel as if you have stepped into a Chinese painting.

A Yangtze River cruise also provides a look at the Three Gorges Dam, the world’s largest hydropower plant and China’s biggest construction project since The Great Wall. Flood control in this region dates back to Yu the Great, an ancient king who is known for taming the waters (some say with the help of a yellow dragon). Even without rumors of mythical beasts, controversy haunts this massive dam that displaced over a million people and whose construction continues to generate environmental concerns.

6. Shanghai

Shanghai is a city of contrasts where east meets west, and an historic waterfront faces off with a modern, neon skyline. Shanghai is at its most romantic along The Bund, a sublime riverside walkway and people-watching paradise. This part of Shanghai feels almost European with many buildings unchanged since the 1930’s when Shanghai and The Bund became the chief shipping, trading, and financial district for the colonial powers (Great Britain, France and the U.S.). In those days, Shanghai was considered the Wall Street of Asia. A walk along the 1-mile promenade reveals why The Bund has been called a “museum of international architecture” with a mix of architectural styles including a number of exceptional Art Deco structures.

The architectural delights of The Bund compete with the marvelous modern structures of the area called Pudong, directly across the Huangpu River. While The Bund holds on to its colonial heritage, Pudong is bright and brassy, clearly demonstrating the power and financial might of the new Shanghai. At night , the Pudong skyline is a neon fantasyland from the crystalline rooftop of the Jin Mao Tower to the Chinese Oriental Pearl Tower that looks like it swallowed two giant Christmas balls.

The people of Shanghai are as shockingly modern as the skyscrapers of Pudong. Designer clothes are de rigueur, and shopping seems to be the principal pastime. The tranquil Yu Yuan Gardens provides a peaceful respite from the bustle of the city. And the pearl shops nearby offer an astounding selection of these lustrous gems. Shanghai also presents some interesting day trip opportunities including the magnificent gardens of Suzhou and the lovely West Lake in Hangzhou.

If you fly out of Shanghai be sure to travel to the airport in flashy high-speed style on the Maglev (Magnetic Levitation Train). Capable of reaching speeds in excess of 300 mph (480 kph), the Maglev is one of the fastest trains in the world. Watch trees and telephone poles whiz by as you cover the 25 miles (40 km) to the airport in just 8 minutes!

7. An unexpected welcome

The best reason to visit China now is because foreigners are still a novelty. At first, you may feel uncomfortable with the way that the Chinese stare at you — like you are the most exotic animal in the zoo. But you need to understand that many Chinese tourists are traveling from their homes in the provinces for the first time, and some have never seen a western face before.

You may find yourself surprisingly popular. When my husband and I visited China, we were amazed when Chinese tourists at breathtaking sites like the Temple of Heaven or The Great Wall wanted to take pictures of us. Some of your favorite memories of China may be these fun picture-taking interactions.

It is hard to believe that the Cultural Revolution ended just two generations ago. Throughout China, young people seek out foreigners to show-off their fluent English, and little school children jump up and down yelling, “Hallo! Hallo!” whenever they see western tourists. Several times, parents nudged their children in our direction – the kids proudly waving their schoolbooks to show us they were learning how to speak English.

In general, China is much friendlier than you would expect. As new generations emerge, the old antagonism towards the West seems long forgotten, and the deep suspicion of foreigners that Mao encouraged is nowhere in sight.

Food’s you must try in China

Everyone has a favorite neighborhood Chinese restaurant. Sometimes that wonton soup can be downright comforting. And that shrimp with lobster sauce and beef with broccoli is always great on nights when you want takeout. But when you go to China, you’re not going to find those dishes there. In fact, much of the menu you’ve come to love from your local Chinese restaurant is really just an Americanized version of Chinese food. 

Well, truth be told, you’ll find wonton soup (called hun tun tang in Chinese) there. More on that in a moment. However when it comes to just about everything else, you’re not going to find it. So here is what you should look for. Then when you come back home, you can ask your local Chinese restaurant to make the authentic Chinese dishes you fell in love with while in China.

1. Sweet and Sour Pork

So here is one you’ll mildly recognize. But no matter how good your favorite Chinese restaurant is, this dish is so much better in China. For starters, in the states, it is often fried in a doughy batter that hinders the taste. In China, the pork is lightly fried very rapidly at high heat, then dressed with the sauce. If this is the dish you most often order, try it in China and you will wish you’d had it this way sooner.

2. Ma Po Tofu

This dish is over 100 years old. A spicy dish of tofu with browned ground beef in a savory sauce topped with green onions, it is blissful on top of a hot mound of rice.  You may have seen this on Chinese restaurant menus in the states. Most people skim past it, but it is without a doubt one of the best dishes in all of China for its harmonious ability to unite texture with the perfect dose of spice.

3. Wonton Soup

Looking for something familiar? Ask for wonton soup (or hun tun tang) and you’ll be pleased to see it resemble what you’re used to it being. Sometimes, the broth is less golden than you’re used to, however the wontons (hun tun) are absolutely spectacular. They’re most typically filled with minced pork or even diced shrimp. Sometimes, it will be a mixture of the two. As a hearty and comforting food, Chinese people have the custom of eating wontons at the winter solstice. They’ve been doing this since the Tang Dynasty which was from 618 to 907. 

4. Dumplings

Ok, so those ubiquitous pork dumplings you can get steamed or pan-fried at any Chinese restaurant in America? Hate to break it to you, but those are amateur dumplings. However, if you like those, you’re going to be delighted by the ones you find in China. There are whole restaurants devoted to dumpling-making. Dumplings come in more varieties than just pork, though pork is one of the most common fillings. There are shrimp dumplings, beef dumplings, vegetable dumplings, fish dumplings, and many more. One of the best dumplings ever is with cucumber and scrambled eggs. It sounds strange but try it and you won’t be sorry! 

Another thing you should know about dumplings in China is that they are always served on holidays. During a Chinese holiday meal, dishes will keep being placed on the table. When a large whole fish is brought out, that signifies that dumplings will follow at the close of the feast, so pace yourself as you eat so you don’t offend you Chinese hosts by not tasting their dumplings, often regarded as the star of the show.

5. Roasted duck

Roasted duck is the most famous dish that comes from Beijing. You’ll find it in any city though having it in Beijing is an absolute must. It is cooked in such a way that the skin is thin and crispy while the inside is succulent. It is served with savory pancakes. You’re to take pieces of the duck meat and wrap it in the pancakes with sweet bean sauce and spring onions for a mouthful of incredible delights!

6. Sichuan Shredded Chicken

Known as “you xiang rou si,” this spicy chicken stir-fry is something you won’t see in the states. It consists of shredded chicken that’s cooked fast over extremely high heat along with carrots, bamboo shoots, and green peppers. The sauce is a bit sweet and a bit sour with a heft of garlic for a pungent flavor you’ll crave. 

7. Hairy crab

Visit the coastal cities of Shanghai or Quingdao during the fall months and you’re likely to find hairy crab everywhere you go. Steamed up to perfection, just enjoying the sweet meat from within the shells is blissful enough. Chinese people love to dip it in a sauce of dark vinegar in ginger, which some foreigners find unusual. There is no butter to dip it in so don’t bother asking. 

8. Soup dumplings

Soup dumplings are different than the other dumplings we already discussed. Soup dumplings are next-level dumplings. They are Shanghai’s famous dish and you absolutely must have them. These dumplings are created to hold a broth inside of them. They are served with a deep and wide white soup spoon. The correct way to eat them is to pluck one up with your chopstick, place it onto the soup spoon and then take a bite. When you bite into it, the soup will gush out into the spoon. As it’s usually piping hot, you should do this very gingerly. This way, you won’t burn your lips on the soup and you’ll catch that lovely broth in your spoon.

9. Chinese barbecue

In the summer months, the streets of China come alive with all the people happily enjoying the warmer weather. Whether landlocked or by the sea, you will see tons of vendors standing over long rows of charcoal barbecues with bite-sized morsels of seasoned meats grilling to perfection over an open flame. The smoky, meaty delights you’ll get are out of this world. The seasonings can be made as spicy as you want. If you’re worried about trying it out from street vendors, there are restaurants that specialize in Chinese barbecue where you can get anything from pork and lamb to squid and vegetables grilled up on your skewers. Whatever you do, don’t miss out on these!

10. Hot pot

Hot pot is a Chinese favorite. It’s not just a meal. It’s a pastime. A large cauldron of boiling water burbles up in the center of the table and you order meats and vegetables to cook up yourself in this pot. Once they’re ready, you fetch them out and dip them in a savory, salty, peanut buttery sauce. On a cold night, hot pot is the best way to spend time catching up with friends. The meal is slow-paced, everyone eating, drinking, talking and enjoying each other’s company. Taste some food here and there, clink your beers together, and nibble a little more. This leisurely pace makes the hot pot experience all the more sublime.

11. Steamed stuffed buns

A great street food to grab on the go, you’ll love Steamed stuffed buns. Balls of dough are stuffed with savory ingredients, usually pork and vegetables though there are many other varieties. Then these dough balls are steamed up and the result are these. Known as “baozi” in Chinese, they are a delicious and cheap way to fill up when you’re sightseeing. 

12. Sugared hawthorns on a stick

Want something sweet to nibble on while you walk around? Look for a street vendors selling sugar-coated hawthorns. They’re tart but with the sugar coating, they’re sweet too. It’s like eating sweet and sour cranberries from a stick. Beware: hawthorns have pits in the center, but this sweet and gooey concoction will totally make you feel like a kid again.

13. Sausages

Some may not be impressed with this, but if you like sausages, you might want to give the ones you find in China a try. Pork sausage in China has heavy influences from Russia, which you can taste in these robust sausages dotted with fat. They’re slightly sweet and slightly smoky for a sublime taste that will fit the bill when you start feeling homesick too.

14. Century egg 

Chinese people love pickling things, but by far, the most beloved preserved item on their list is the century egg, sometimes called the thousand-year-old egg. It’s not as old as the name suggests, however they are preserved for a short while in a combination of clay, salt, ash, quicklime, and rice hulls. The result is this Chinese delicacy that is black and gelled. It’s an interesting taste to say the least.

15. Mooncakes




Around the autumn holidays and of course for the Chinese New Year, mooncakes are an essential component to the celebration. These small cakes aren’t meant for one person. They’re far too dense anyway. You slice them into tiny wedges and share them. They have interesting fillings inside which aren’t bad, however don’t bite into them expecting sweet chocolate. They have things like bean paste, sesame seeds, and nuts inside of them.